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In
November 2005 I went to Pembrokeshire with Archaelogical Safaris (www.archeologicalsafaris.co.uk)
to look at Neolithic tombs under the guidance of archaeologist George
Nash. Archeology students are on these trips but outsiders like me have
a good time too.
Throughout Pembrokeshire there are standing stones, some erected in modern
times as rubbing stones for cattle or sheep. There are also clusters of
tombs - portal dolmens with a single chamber (like the Hoar stone in Enstone,
Oxon), double dolmens with two chambers probably later in time, earthfast
tombs with one side of the capstone anchored in the earth.
Many of these - perhaps not the earthfast type - had mounds of earth or
small rocks over them. The capstone may have protruded from the top of
these. Some portal dolmens were incorporated into long mounds with a tail
and with forecourts. Though the forecourt "horns" are shaped
(though not constructed) like the long barrows of the Cotswold Severn
area (like Belas Knapp in Gloucestershire), there are other differences
in design.
Exact dating is difficult but these are generally ascribed to the Neolithic
age. There are few reliable remains to date. Even human bones, which can
be dated, may have been placed in the monument later. Cup marks found
on the monuments would have been added later in the Bronze age.
Folklore in Pembrokeshire ascribes these monuments to local saints or
King Arthur, rather than the Devil. And the Welsh romantics of the eighteenth
and nineteenth century claimed that they were bardic or Druid altars rather
than chambered tombs. Many of the early antiquarians could not believe
that Neolithic man would have covered up the dolmens, erected with such
difficulty, with earthen mounds. The line drawings come from the Archaeologia
Cambrensis l872, unless otherwise stated.
I have followed George Nash in "Neolithic Sites of Cardiganshire,
Carmathenshire and Pembrokeshire" (Logaston Press) in grouping these
geographically. But within each group I have ranked them in alphabetical
not geographical order.
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CAMARTHEN
TWIC Y FILLIAST
GWENT
MONMOUTHSHIRE
HAROLD'S STONES
PEMBROKESHIRE
THE ALTAR, COLSTON CAREG
COETAN
CARN LLIDI
CARREG SAMSON
CERRIF Y GOF
GARN TURNE
GARN WEN
LADY STONE
LLECH Y DRIBEDD
PARC Y GARN
PARC-Y-LLYN
PENTRE IFAN
TRELLYFFANT
POWYS
PEN Y BEACON |
TWIC-y-FILLIAST,
LLANGYNOG, SN 3383 1608.
Also called Arthur'stone or Ebernezer, Hidden in bushy woodland,
just off a footpath and footbridge over a stream, this is a much
damaged site. A amulet discovered nearby may date the monument
to the late Neolithic early Bronze age. Probably a portal dolmen
with one small chamber, three upright orthostats and a slipped
capstone. Archaeologist George Nash detected some stones, which
might suggest a passage with a façade.
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HAROLD'S
STONES, TRELLECH SO 4885 052
A row of three large upright standing stones made out of puddingstone,
a conglomerate of pebbles stuck together with silica and lion
oxides, in the church along the B4293, south of the village. The
village itself is named from the stones - tre - three, lech -
stone. They were supposedly erected to commemorate a victory by
King Harold, but are prehistoric. Another tale is that A folklore
tradition tells how they were thrown down by a giant, Jack of
Kent, from the nearby Sugar Loaf mountain when he was playing
quoits with the Devil.
Folklore says that if you pull out one of the small stones from
the puddingstone, it grows a new one. If you walk back from Harold's
stones, you come to the little drinking trough which marks the
Virtuous Well at the crossroads towards the village. Turn into
the village and there is a little waymarker stone in the lane
on the right. This is the other side of the garden wall of Hollytree
House. On the village "green" (a green without grass)
is a mounting block of stone - is this the Mounting stone shown
on the Explorer OL14 at SO 504102, saved by the Friends of Trellech.
And in the churchyard is a whacking great Saxon altar stone, as
well as a fine medieval cross.
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THE ALTAR,
COLSTON, LITTLE NEWCASTLE. SM 9828 2812
A much damaged chambered tomb. Some of the monument is probably
still in the hedge boundary. Archologist George Nah suggests this,
Parc yu llyn and Garne Tune may be by late Neolithic, c. 2500
BC. This could do with some wire or fencing round it to reduce
cattle damage.
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CAREG COETAN,
NEWPORT, SN 0602 3935
A large capstone on three legs like a tripod which dips towards
the Afon Nyfer estuary. Also known as Arthur's Quoit. The site
is railed off(why do people think dolmens need caging?) and surburbanised
by nearby bungalows and caged in by railings, as if dolmens were
zoo animals! Nash describes is as a classic portal dolmen once
incorporated into a long mound. There are still traces of this
mound. When leaving the dolmen on the right of the tarmac drive,
next to the "Private road" sign, is a small polisher
stone. Once part of the monument or just coincidence?
Sir Richard Colt Hoar reported in Journal of a Tour in South Wales.
Anno 1793. "In a field between the town and the harbour (of
Newport) I saw another druidical relict, resembling in some degree
the one at Pentre Evan but infinitely smaller in its proportions.
The upper stone resembles an umbrella or mushroom. Though there
are several stones underneath, some fallen to the ground and others
standing, it rests only upon two. But as it is evident that some
have given way it is impossible to say how many it was formerly
supported (by)."
There were remains of its earth or stone coverings visible in
l872 according to the Archaeologia Cambrensis of that year - vol
3 Ser.4. p 140.
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CARN LLIDI,
ST DAVID'S. SM 7352 2789
A double chambered tomb looking out towards a Neolithic settlement
with field systems still visible. George Nash thinks this was
unlikely to have had a covering mound. The west capstone is of
the "earthfast" type, with one end resting on the ground.
There is a theory that the other capstone once rested on a ledge
of rock. This tomb nowadays, and possibly always, merges into
the rock hillside so that it is, unlike many monuments, invisible
from afar.
A concrete gun emplacement, built during World War 11 just near
this tomb, is still visible. On the way back from here to St David's
town various erect stones are visible from the entrance to Emlych
farm.
The headland of Carn Llidi excited Sir Richard Cold Hoare to exclaim
in Journal of a Tour of south Wales in l793: "No place could
ever be more suited to retirement, contemplation or Druidical
mysteries, surrounded by inaccessible rock and open to a wide
expanse of ocean. Nothing seems wanting but the thick impenetrable
groves of oaks which have been thought concomitant to places of
Druidical worship and which, from the exposed nature of this situation,
would never, I think, have existed here even in former days."
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CARREG
SAMSON or THE LONGHOUSE, MATHRY, SM 8483 3350
So called since it was thought that St Samson lifted the capstone
with his finger. This was a portal dolmen probably incorporated
into a long mound. The outlying stones are just outcrop. Like other
portal dolmens, the stones were erected over a pit now filled in.
At one stage the monument may have had dry stone walling - possibly
because it was used as a sheep shelter. Excavations in l968 found
an early Neolithic bowl. |
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CERRIF
Y GOF, NEWPORT, SN 0365 3890
Of great interest to archaeologists, this tomb has five small
burial chambers (cists) radiating out from the centre of an oval
mound. George Nash suggests this tomb may show the transition
from Neolithic to Bronze Age tomb design. An outlying stone, not
necessarily an erected one, at SN 0357 3892 is cupmarked.
We are lucky it still survives. In l853 an antiquarian vicar,
the Rev H. Longueville Jones reported: "Five cromlechau arranged
like the radii of a circle.. all cleared from the surrounding
stones and earth; the tenant is very anxious for their removal,
.. the probability, therefore, is that within a few years a new
wall will have been added to the field, but that this almost unique
monument will have disappeared."(Arch Cambrensis 4, p 276).
By l872 the journal reported that some of the stones had been
removed. The l872 plan and line drawings are easier to follow
than my more modern photos!
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GARN TURNE,
ST DOGWELLS. SM 9793 2725
Possibly the largest capstone in Britain. Like Pentre Ifan, this
has a forecourt of uprights. The forecourt has a prostrate stone
in the middle of it. Nearer the capstone is a fallen stone which
may have been the door or blocking stone. The capstone has collapsed
off its uprights. A ring cup is clearly visible on it.
The monument merges into the surrounding rock outcrops and possibly
had no covering mound. The surrounding fields have been cleared
of boulders so possible nearby Neolithic standing stones are no
more. But there are two possible standing stones in the same field.
One pointed one at SM 97935 27298 and one flat topped at SM 97904
27307.
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GARN WEN,
GOODWICK. SM 9483 3903
This major prehistoric site, on the headland looking down to Goodwick
bay, is living proof that some planning officers don't give a
damn about these monuments. This is an amazing linear cemetery
of three, maybe once five, megalithic tombs but a row of seaside
houses has been built only a few yards away. The tombs could look
out to the sea if it wasn't for these houses in between! Gardens
are now intruding upon this cemetery.
It is difficult to know if these are portal dolmens with slipped
capstones or earthfast capstones with one end in the soil. There
is no evidence of covering mounds and the tombs blend into the
rocky outcrops. Up the hill are natural rocks including a cupmarked
one at SM 9482 3904. Easy access by footpath.
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THE LADY
STONE DINAS CROSS SM 9958 3764
A single standing stone, railed off the A487 Fishguard to Newport
road. A processional marker? Said to resemble a cloaked woman.
The name of the Lady may mean Our Lady, a Christianised name for
an earlier stone.
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LLECH
Y DRIBEDD, MOYLGROVE. SN 1005 4319
In a field off a rough track towards Penland Farm, this looks
like a tripod. A fallen stone may have once been the fourth to
hold up the huge capstone, which almost seems too large for its
supporting stones. Also known as Samson's Quoit or the Altar stone.
In 1613 in The Description of Pembrokeshire, George Owen of Henllys
(1552-1613) reported: "There are other stones in iij or iiij
other places in the country adjoining (to Pentre Ifan) as Legh
y tribedd near Richardstone and one in Newport near the bridge,
another beneath the town but not comparable to this, neither in
bigness or in standing so high." The l872 line drawing is
from the opposite angle to my photo.
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TREWALTER
LLWYD or PARC Y GARN, MATHRY, SM 8682 3176
This has become incorporated into the field bank at the end of
a green lane (wired off), which turns to become a footpath. A
tempting site for archeologists as the earth banks have probably
protected whatever remains in the tomb. The standing stone right
in the middle of a nearby field may be linked or it may just be
a rubbing stone for cattle. This tomb would have been visible
from Carreg Sampson and probably looked like Llech y Dribedd.
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PARC-Y-LLYN,
AMBLESTONE. SM 9823 2659
A smaller monument not far from Garn Turne on private land.
The collapsed capstone is close to the banked hedge, which may
enclose a second chamber. This kind of monument doesn't look
much to outsiders but it offers archaeologists the chance to
find unexcavated and unplundered tomb material in the future.
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1872
- view from the back

1872 - the portal entrance

Nineteenth century engraving |



The earliest picture by George Owen - 1613 |
PENTRE
IFAN, NEVERN. SN 0993 3707
Like Stonehenge in England, this is a Welsh megalithic icon, on
the tourist map from the seventeenth century onwards. It is a
closed portal tomb with a single burial chamber. Below the capstone,
the tomb's chamber was originally cut into the earth and lined
with dry stone walling. This has now been filled in.
Like a Cotswold long barrow (see Belas Knapp Gloucestershire)
it had "horns" erected either side of the entrance,
making a forecourt area, and a stone in the middle of the entrance,
not in contact with the capstone. This acted either to block entrance
into or if moved to allow entrance into the tomb's chamber. It
looks rather like Cotswold Severn long barrows to me, but is generally
thought to be influenced by Irish Carlingford tombs. This huge
monument would have been covered with stones and earth, like a
long barrow, though possibly with the large capstone showing at
the top. Nineteenth century archaeologists had great difficulty
in believing that these monuments were covered by earth or stone
cairns.
In 1613 in The Description of Pembrokeshire, George Owen of Henllys
(1552-1613) reported: "An other thing worth the noting is
the stone called Maen Y gromlegh upon Pentre Jevan land; it is
a huge and massie stone mounted on high and set on the tops of
iij other high stones, pitched standing upright in the ground,
it far passeth for bigness and height Arthur's stone in the way
between Hereford and the Hey
or any other that ever I saw,
saving some in Stonehenge upon Salisbury plain
. The stones
whereon this is laid, are so high, that a man, on horseback, may
well ride under it, without stooping, the stone that is thus mounted
is xviij foot long and nine foot broad, and three foot thick at
the one end, but thinner at the other, and from it, as it is apparent
since his placing there, is broken a piece of 5 foot broad &
10 foot long, lying yet in the place, more than 20 oxen would
draw, doubtless this stone was mounted long time feethence in
memory of some great victory, or the burial of some notable person,
which was the ancient rite, for that it hath pitched stones standing
one against the other, round about, and close to the huge stone,
which is mounted high to be seen afar off
.but there is no
report or memory or other matter to be found of the cause of the
erecting of this Trophea, they call the stone Gromlech
"
(His drawing shows fallen stones under the capstone that are no
longer visible. He mistook one for a large fragment of the capstone.)
John Aubrey mentions Pentre Ifan "called Y Gromlech"
in Monumenta Brittanica and, reflecting on the word "cromlech"
remarks "that the Irish historians call one of their chief
idols Cromcruach." Early antiquarians often get led astray
by place names. Aubrey probably knew of it from Sir Edward Lhuyd
(1660-1709) at the Ashmolean in Oxford, who toured Wales, and
rewrote the Welsh section of Camden's Brittanica in its 1695 edition.
Sir Richard Colt Hoare in Journal of a Tour in South Wales in
l793 wrote: "On a rough and stoney common, is a druidical
relict, known by the name of Y Cromlech, and by the common people
perhaps better by the appellation of King Arthur's Quoit. It consists
of one large stone about eighteen feet long, supported by three
others about eight feet high. There are others placed under it
but of no use, as the great stone does not rest upon them
In
the field adjoining some large stones lying on the ground seem
to indicate the existence of another similar monument of antiquity."
I have relabelled the l872 drawings.
In the adjoining field are some stones that look like standing
stones. A local vicar, with the bardic name of Tegid, in the nineteenth
century claimed one of the fallen ones was a bardic alter! People
read their own culture into antiquities and no doubt our modern
interpretations will seem quaint in a century or two!
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TRELLYFFANT,
NEVERN, SN 0822 4252
A collapsed portal dolmen, possibly a double one - see the diagram
in Neolithic Sites of Cardiganshire, Carmarthenshire and Pembrokeshire
by George Nash (Logaston Press). It stands on a small mound, perhaps
the remains of its once much bigger covering mound.
The builders used two kinds of stone and there are cupmarks (disputed)
on the capstone. There may once have been dry stone walling between
the uprights. The name apparently means Toad's Hall and a medieval
Welsh historian claimed that a chieftain buried inside the tomb
had been eaten by toads! No footpath - you need permission from
Trellyffant farm to visit this.
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PEN Y BEACON
STONE CIRCLE. SO239373
Just over the Wales border in Powys so I put it here. Worth going
to see if you are visiting the Michaelchurch Escley sites. Marked
as stone circle on the OS map and sited next to a car park on a minor
road from Hay-on-Wye to Llanthony. Only one erect stone, about 1.5
m high with smaller stones lying nearby and a few opposite. Underneath
an OS mark there’s what is thought to be a cupmark. The ground is
uneven so it is difficult, if not impossible, to see how the circle
may have gone. There’s a boulder put there by park authorities to
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