Don’t buy one in a shop. Caring breeders don’t sell
to pet shops, so you may not be getting a baby that has been carefully prepared
for life as a pet. Never buy on the internet – you don’t know where
it’s come from. Go to a rescue centre. About 33,000 bunnies need new homes
every year in the UK. At shelters you can get an adult rabbit. They always have
adults (best for older children) and will also have babies at regular intervals.
A good rescue centre will help you choose a compatible pair of rabbits, or introduce
a new rabbit to your existing one. They will also help you choose a good hutch. Children who are taken to a rescue centre
are usually thrilled and excited to help animal welfare and they learn that
a rabbit is not a commodity to be bought over the counter. Consult www.rabbitrehome.org.uk
for UK rescues. A good rescue will tell you of any problems.
WHAT BREED SHOULD I BUY?
Pet shops often don’t know what breeds they are selling or, if they do
know, don’t know how big the rabbit will be. Breeds now have breed disorders, like pedigree dogs and cats. Avoid fluffy little babies
(Angora, Cashmere and lionhead breeds) which grow into long haired rabbits that need 10 minutes grooming daily otherwise they matt up and get flystrike.. English
lops have huge ears that trail on the ground and often get injured. both English and dwarf lops are prone to earmites, tooth and jaw problems.Giant breeds
need giant houses and runs, and may suffer from splay legs. French lops are prone to earmites, tooth and problems, entropion, glaucoma and femoral luxation. New Zealand whites are prone to glaucoma and ataxis. Netherland dwarfs are prone to tooth and jaw problems. Dutch rabbits have splay leg and spina bifida. There is some information on genetic problems in rabbit breeds on http://www.ufaw.org.uk/RABBITS.php Do some research on the internet
before you decide. Never buy on impulse or out of pity. Some breeders don’t
socialise their babies so always ask if you are buying from a breeder.