FELINE TERRITORY MARKING - SPRAYING IN THE HOUSE OR EVEN POOING ON THE BED.

IS IT
TERRITORY MARKING?
All
territory marking is a cry for help.
Cats spray from an upright position, tail held high
and quivering. It is a way of marking territory so that the urine will be
against a wall or object. Upright spraying is always marking behaviour.
Squatting urination can sometimes be marking behaviour particularly if the cat
is marking either new objects or in places smelling of the owner (like the bed)
but it is more usually a surreptitious pee. A cat usually has a vacant
expression on its face and a twitching tail when it is doing marking urination,
whether upright or squatting.
In addition to this, marking urination is often
done at entry exit points like doorways and windows, on new items, on objects
that are on a cat walkway ie the normal path it takes round the house. Or it
may spray where the ownerˆs scent is strong like on the bed. Or it may spray on
new items like the posh new settee or on heated objects like radiators!
Cats also use poo to mark their territories in the
same way as spraying – at doors or windows, on the bed, on the sofa. They often
do this on places which smell of their owner – showing how they love them
- and turn to these areas when
anxious. Pooing should be treated
in the same way as spraying – cleaning, replaces the smell with Feliway, and
reducing the stress.
Get your cat checked by a vet. If your cat is
squatting and urinating large amounts, it may just be relieving itself rather
than marking its territory. Cystitis, kidney disease and other disorders may be
involved and must be treated before anything else is done. Ordinary urination
usually occurs in secluded places like behind furniture or in rooms that are rarely
used. There may be problems with the litter tray. Or an ill cat may become
anxious and then start spraying.
Sometimes cats urinate in the wrong place because
they can’t get to the litter tray in time – old age, geriatric confusion or
pain from strained ligament. Check the “18 questions you should ask if your cat
stops using the litter tray" in the FAQ above or in the info sheet.
So I shall talk about spraying but in this I
include squatting urination when it is marking and also territory marking with
faeces. Spraying is not always easy to eradicate. If you can afford it, I
strongly advise getting help from a cat behaviour counsellor who can come and
visit. In the long run it will be cheaper than a ruined carpet!
Get help fast. The longer you leave this, the more
difficult it will be to change. If you decide to try and treat this yourself,
do not go in for half measures or try to save time or money! Half measures will
not get you anywhere! Put in the effort NOW. If your cat has been spraying for
some time, ask for my long term spraying sheet.
Never punish. This will encourage even more
spraying. Cats that mark territory are anxious and unhappy.
Which cats spray? Unneutered toms spray most. But
castrated males and females (spayed or not spayed) will also sometimes spray.
ARE YOU
SURE WHICH CAT IS DOING IT?
Have you SEEN it? Rig up a video camera if
necessary (cheap one from www.tiger8.co.uk).
You cannot be sure unless you see for yourself.
If you have more than one cat in the household do
not assume you know which cat is spraying unless you have seen it happen. If
necessary confine each cat separately to a room, in order to find out which is
doing the business. Sometimes one cat spraying will set off the other and both
or all are doing it. Just to make life more complicated, they may be spraying
for different reasons.
There is a fluorescent marker dye from the vet
which can be put in food and which comes out in urine, which can help detect
which cat is doing it. Pet behaviour counsellors can organise this.
TREATMENT
You have
to do three things – clean up, treat the sprayed areas, reduce or eliminate the
cause of stress. In that order with rigorous care.
Vets can prescribe Feliway, which helps reduce
spraying. It comes in a spray and
in plug-in form, Feliway Diffuser. It will only work if combined with rigorous
cleaning and action to stop cat stress. You will need to use both diffuser and
spray for 30 days or more, sprayed daily on all the urination areas. In severe
cases or if the cats are indoor cats use it twice daily. The aim is to use
Feliway as often as the cat is patrolling and marking its territory. If the cat
is marking three times a day, then use it three times a day. Be lavish. If you
don’t use enough, it will not work.
The alternative treatment (much more work but no
cost) is to use the scent off the cat’s own facial glands. This may be more
effective, but it is only possible if you can tell where your cat rub rubs its
chin in the house. Take a soft clean cotton cloth and tape it or pin it to the
places you cat rubs. If you can identify several places, all the better. Use
several cloths. When you are sure they have been rubbed, then hang up the cloth
where the cat has sprayed. Do this daily rotating the cloths.
If you have a cuddly cat you might be able to take
a cloth and gently rub it against your cat’s cheek and chin. But if you have a nervous cat, anxious
about petting, this may freak it out. Do not persist, in this case, as the cat
will become stressed and spray more. Use Feliway instead.
As a last resort you can ask a vet to prescribe
either the equivalent of antidepressants for the cat, or a hormonal injection.
But giving a cat a pill daily may stress it even more and the hormone injection
has dangerous side effects. Drug
treatment is not a substitute for dealing with the real causes.
HOW TO
PROCEED
Clean all the urine sites, see previous FAQ or
information sheet. If you don’t do this thoroughly, you might as well not
bother with anything else! Consider redecorating if the spraying has been going
on a long time.
Then spray with Feliway and plug in a Feliway
Diffuser or use the cotton cloth technique daily for 30 days (twice daily if
necessary) on the site used for spraying.
Finally add bowls of food at the spray sites. If
you have a cat with a weight problem, glue pieces of dried cat food on
cardboard and place these at the site – they cannot be eaten but they will make
the spray site smell like a dining room not a toilet.
IF THE
SPRAYING HAS BEEN GOING ON FOR SOME TIME, START TREATMENT IN ONE ROOM.
Make the cat feel safe in its own territory by
putting it in a small room or in an a large indoor pen which has been
thoroughly cleaned of urine marks. Confinement means safety to a cat. Put its
bed in the room and also supply litter. Use Feliway (or cotton cloth) lavishly
in the room/pen before putting the cat in. Keep the cat in there for two or
three days being careful to change litter frequently.
Then slowly allow the cat access room by room to
the house, cleaning each and lavishly spraying with Feliway daily and
supervising it to begin with in each room. Take about a week to re-introduce
the cat to each room. If you hurry this, it may not work. You are going to need
a great deal of Feliway on the rooms already used by the cats, then on each new
room as you give the cat access. Each room will need spraying for at least 30
days on all urine marks. The aim is for the cat slowly to perceive the house as
a safe zone with protecting owners.
FINDING
THE CAUSES OF SPRAYING TO PREVENT IT STARTING AGAIN.
Spraying is a cat’s response to stress. If you don’t
deal with the underlying causes, then it will start up again. There may be more
than one cause – all must be investigated. Think about this in chronological
order. Where did it start? When did it start? Choose a symbol for the first
spraying, say A, a symbol for subsequent spraying, say B and so forth. Make a
map of the house and mark the spray points. Location may supply clues – near
the front door may mean something frightening the other side. On the route to
the feeding area may mean one of your cats is ambushing the other there. Do
careful observation of the relationship between your cats.
Try to think like a cat. This is where the help of
a behaviour counsellor (see links below FAQs) is well worth having if you can
afford it. Sometimes pet insurance pays. Read the FAQ on Reasons why your cat is stressed.